Clive Hartley

Best’s Great Western was established in 1866. The current owners, the Thomson family took over in 1920. Two families in 160 years is a fine record and custodianship. The old Concongella vineyard and the rare Nursery Block is a national treasure. The block contains 39 different grape varieties, some remain unidentified and are amongst the oldest pre-phylloxera plantings in the world. They make two wines from the block, a field blend white containing 18 different varieties and a red which has the remaining 21 varieties. You are literally drinking Australian history in a glass. Amazing. If you have not been to their cellar door then take a day trip.

They have many rare and unusual wines. One is a sourced from their Pinot Meunier vineyard. This grape variety was probably planted for sparkling wine use, as is the case in Champagne, where it is a blending partner with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is often seen more in non-vintage Champagne and adds a nice fruit component. Best’s have nurtured the vines to produce a red wine. It makes a light wine similar to Pinot Noir. They have just released their Young Vine Pinot Meunier (RRP $45). When they say ‘young’ they are referring to vines planted 56 years ago, which some would consider ‘old’. This vintage includes fruit from the 1868 original plantings of Pinot Meunier, due to the insufficient amount to make an old vine bottling. So that is a win for the Young Vine wine. The 2025 release is a smooth, elegant, light bodied wine with cranberry and redcurrant driven aromas and flavours.

I also got to taste the 2022 Bin 1 Shiraz (RRP $27) which will be released later this year. It represents outstanding value for money delivering a rich, full bodied black fruit driven wine supported by some cool climate notes of sweet cooking spices and laced with cedar oak. I love this wine for its restrained generosity.

Both these wines a great to drink now or will sit happily in the cellar for a number of years. I prefer to drink them young.

Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio called “put a cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford or through his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au